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Um, What?! Wednesday: PPG Stearyl Ether


Polypropylene glycol stearyl ether is mainly found in ‘moisturizing’ personal care products. It is written as PPG-11 or PPG-15 stearyl ether in the ingredients lists. This ingredient is made by the reaction between propylene oxide and stearyl alcohol. Stearyl alcohols come from animal fats and oils (vegans beware!). The 11 or 15 designation is based on the ‘units’ of propylene glycol produced in the reaction.

PPG-11/15 stearyl ethers are known lubricants meant to give the skin a moisturized look and feel. They are also classified as skin conditioning agents and emollients. The chemicals have been deemed safe at the concentrations typical of most cosmetic applications they are found in. Even concentrated, these chemicals did not irritate the eyes. A related chemical, PPG butyl ether was found to be slightly irritating to the eyes and skin. It is absorbed very slowly-if at all- into the digestive tract where it is easily metabolized and eliminated as waste in the urine.

As time progresses and my knowledge increases, I’m becoming more compelled to make the switch to all natural personal care products. I currently use over the counter products, all of which contain the ingredients I’ve reviewed thus far. I have not experienced any known irritation to the products I use daily and I am satisfied (most of the time) with the results— I have very tempermental skin! I just can’t help but wonder what long term effects my drug of choice may be having on my well-being. Think about it for yourself.

Um, What?! Wednesday


This is the very first Um, What?! Wednesday! Every Wednesday I’m going to break down one ingredient commonly found in personal care products; giving you the good, the bad and the ugly. Today its all about EDTA, my absolute favorite chemical (don’t ask me why, I’m a nerd!). Here are the facts:

EDTA and its salts– anything listed that has EDTA somewhere in the name– is found in just about all skin care treatments including lotions, creams, body wash, soap, shampoos and conditioners. Its official chemical name is (insert deep breath here) ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid. Its defining quality is the ability to bind metal ions. Popular applications in your personal care products are preservative and foaming/lather agent. As a preservative it prevents deterioration of the product, protects the fragrance, and prevents rancidity (common in products whose ingredients include water). It combines with metals such as calcium, magnesium and iron to achieve foam or lather. EDTA also keeps metals from being deposited on your hair, skin and scalp (cleanliness is of utmost importance right?).

Not only is this chemical known for getting the job done, its also been deemed safe by the FDA for food and cosmetic applications. That’s right, its safe enough to eat!!!! In reference to cosmetic and personal care applications, it is not a skin irritant or sensitizer, nor is it a carcinogen (won’t cause cancer). It results in very little skin penetration, so if found in your blood stream, its only in trace amounts.

I absolutely love this chemical!!!! See you next Wednesday!

What “Green” Really Means…

I stumbled upon an article in an issue of Cosmetiscope– a journal for cosmetic scientists– detailing what ‘green’ means in the cosmetic industry. What I once thought to be no more than an eco-fad has quickly become quite important to a great majority internationally. Here’s what I learned…

In order to be considered green the cosmetic manufacturer must make an effort to prevent waste. Generally chemical waste is detrimental to the environment so you can see why this would be important. A few other requirements are linked to preventing or reducing waste, so I’ll discuss them now. Any substance that is used for the sole purpose of making a reaction work has to be renewable. It cannot be ‘used up’ in the process and it cannot be inactive when the process is complete. Similarly, green processes minimize the creation of side products that cannot be used in other applications. In addition, green processes make use of what I would call personal assistants which speed up the reaction and minimize the amount of starting material needed.

Next on the chopping block– unnecessary chemicals. All the ingredients tossed into the mixing bowl have to be needed for effective application of the product. In other words, all those 15-35 letter ingredients that fascinate me so much (nerdy I know!) have to be in there for a darn good reason! Additionally, a fantastically green product serves its purpose and then calls it quits leaving no chemical scars on our blessed environment. And just for good measure, a real-time pollution prevention tool should be in place. Toxicity and risk of chemical disaster– like explosions, fires, gas leaks (no big deal, right?) are kept to a minimum.

And with all the talk about energy conservation locally and on capital hill, its no mystery why the cosmetic industry would strive to be particular about the energy use in their chemical processes.

Stay tuned to see how well your cosmetic company of choice is doing with the transition!