by theglamscientist | | Uncategorized |
I haven’t posted anything since Wednesday for good reason. Primarily, as April 1 draws near, I have quite a few loose ends to tie. I’ve been making final touches on the scents for the signature series. I’m rather pleased with the results so far. I was also working on a project for a client which is now awaiting her approval. Lastly, I have developed preliminary formulas for the next set of products to roll out. I would like to make them available in mid-April. Let me tell you they are divine! I’ll wait awhile before I tell you what they are in case I change the order of product release.
About the blog posts… I think Timeless Treasure Thursday has come close to running its course. I may write about a company from time to time, but ultimately the subject matter for Thursday will be replaced. I may begin to cover trends in hair, skin, makeup and nail care and periodically tie Thursday’s posts in with Fresh Idea Friday. Another thought is to add another self esteem day. Sort of a “touch up” to follow Maintenance Monday. We’ll play it by ear for now.
Be glamorous!
by theglamscientist | | carbamide, humectant, skin care, skin conditioning, urea |
When you hear the word ‘urea’ what is the first thing that comes to mind? If you thought about urine, you’re not alone and you’re certainly not wrong! Although urea is not literally urine, it is a component in the urine produced by mammals. The urea concentration in animal waste is much higher than that of humans. Fortunately, the urea used is not derived from animals or humans, it is produced synthetically. That is great for vegans but of no use to the au naturale beauties.
Urea, also known as carbamide, was first synthesized from inorganic materials in 1828 by Friedrich Wohler who was attempting to make something totally different. Urea was in fact the hands down proof that nature could be recreated in the lab using non-natural starting materials. Urea is mainly produced commercially/industrially as a fertilizer; however, it has significant applications in cosmetics and personal care products.
As an ingredient in cosmetics, urea is used as a preservative and also as a buffer, humectant and skin conditioning agent. A buffer controls the ratio of acids and bases. Typically, personal care products should have a pH close to that of water which is neutral (pH of 7). Humectants draw water to the skin which aids in hydration/moisturization. Urea is an active ingredient in products used to treat dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema and keratosis pilaris (chicken skin).
After review by the CIR urea showed low adverse affects. Dermal irritation was found to be insignificant. There were no reproductive or developmental issues. Urea was also cleared from any carcinogenic risks.
by theglamscientist | | allantoin, collagen, elastin, glycolic acid, snail cream, snail trail |
I’m sure we are all familiar with snails and the slimy little trail they leave behind. I once had an intimate relationship with a few snails in middle school. They were unwilling participants in a science project I developed regarding second hand smoke. FYI– I no longer use animal testing. The slime was gross to say the least, but snails were the lesser of evils. I worked with mealworms first–extra gross!– and I can’t even bear the sight of slugs. Much to my surprise, snail trails have a profound application in cosmetics and skin care treatments.
The use of snail extract in beauty treatments was discovered accidentally by snail farmers in Chile. They noticed that cuts healed rather quickly and that all of the workers on the snail farm had unusually soft, supple hands. Typically, hard work with your hands equals hard, calloused hands, but that certainly was not the case. After taking the time to really think about it, it should be no surprise that snail slime has these properties. Critically thinking, snail’s soft bellies travel over some very rough surfaces, yet they keep going and never appear to get injured. Scientists discovered that the snail extract–Helix Aspersa Muller Glycoconjugates– contains collagen, allantoin, glycolic acid, elastin and antibiotics. Allantoin is responsible for skin regeneration. It is the anti-oxidant that allows a snail to repair/rebuild its shell if necessary. Glycolic acid is useful in hydrating and exfoliating the skin as well as assisting natural collagen production. The antibiotics in snail extract are a combination of peptides and Vitamins A, C and EA which work together to fight bacteria.
This is not ‘new’ science. The first snail cream was patented in 1995. It was used to fight wrinkles, acne, and age spots and to treat minor burns, cuts, stretch marks, warts, ingrown hairs, etc. The snails used to make various snail trail cosmetics are raised in a controlled environment to ensure they produce optimal extract. But how is the slime extracted?
One patented method is to agitate the snails in warm water. The water is then filtered to collect only the snail extract. I’ve read of other methods that were much more harsh than this. One involved removing the shell and cutting the fatty parts of the snail. Now is that really necessary? There is also concern about how effective the extract is after being stolen from the snail. Son of the Chilean farmer who originally discovered this miracle slime has developed a process to extract the slime and preserve its qualities. He claims his method does not harm the snails but that is definitely under suspicion since the method is top secret.
While it is a known fact that the snail trail has all these magnificent properties, there is no guarantee that they actually make it into your jar of cream or vial of serum. Additionally, the synthetic ingredients typically found in our beauty products may greatly alter the effectiveness of such a concoction.
by theglamscientist | | Uncategorized |
I had the pleasure of attending a very honorable event this past Thursday evening. The Vanguard Awards produced by the Detroit Young Professionals organization recognized 10 very deserving individuals who are making a significant impact on Metropolitan Detroit. One of the honorees, Kalyn Risker, stood out to me more than any of the others. The minute this woman began to speak, I could see her inner beauty shining bright like a beacon of light. Kalyn Risker is the founder of S.A.F.E (Sisters Acquiring Financial Empowerment) a non-profit organization dedicated to helping domestic violence survivors overcome the economical pains of leaving an unhealthy relationship.
Ms. Risker spoke with such passion, determination, strength and compassion about her cause. I made a point to introduce myself to her and extend my resources to her organization for more reasons than one. I truly believe that her mission will reach a multitude of suffering women which is reason enough to want to help. But more than that, this woman exudes the type of inner beauty that I have spoken so much about on Maintenance Mondays. Having overcome her own hardships, Risker seeks to empower other women to do the same. I applaud her efforts and look forward to working with her in the very near future.
Kalyn Risker is an example to us all. Continue striving to be your very best self— inside and out. And don’t forget to fight for a cause you believe in. Everybody needs some sort of help, why not be the one to offer it?
Click on SAFE to visit the website to learn more about Kalyn Risker’s organization. Remember, nonprofits can always benefit from monetary support. Large or small, your donation will make a difference.
by theglamscientist | | Aveda Corporation, Estee Lauder, natural skin care |
Aveda Corporation was born in 1978 from a homemade clove shampoo made by successful cosmetologist Horst Rechelbacher. Horst spent six months in India studying the use of plants and herbs for the purposes of promoting good health and increased lifespan. Thus Aveda products incorparated all that he learned. In the early 1980’s Horst began marketing his shampoos and conditioners to hair salons where he earned great success. He eventually began a distribution system for his products in which distributers sold Aveda exclusively in their stores.
Aveda’s body care products were set apart from the others because they employed the use of aromatherapy and because they were all natural. Horst was always opposed to the use of synthetics, petroleum bases and animal testing. The Aveda Corporation expanded its business by introducing Aveda Esthetique in the 90’s. The Esthetique consisted of over 75 original fragrances that could be used to custom scent already existing Aveda products.
Over time, more and more big name cosmetic companies began marketing natural product lines. Because those companies offered their products to a larger population of vendors, they had more earning potential. It appeared that the Aveda Corporation may have restricted its profits by having a collection of too many different products. As part of its committment to protecting the environment, the company owned a collection of salons, esthetiques and even environmentally friendly clothing lines.
In 1996, Horst decided to take a step back from the everyday hustle and bustle of his growing company. By 1997, the company had been sold to Estee Lauder where, as chairman of the Estee Lauder business unit, he was able to continue to develop products. Today, the company remains profitable and has experienced an increase in growth as Estee Lauder has marketing reach overseas.
