by theglamscientist | | alpha hydroxy acid, chemical peel, exfoliators, glycolic acid |
A couple years ago, while in the midst of a battle with my temperamental skin, a friend of mine recommended I try a chemical peel. The title alone was enough to keep me from trying it. I have very dry skin, opting for a chemical peel just screams “Dry me out some more!!!!” Thankfully I saved myself the heartache.
Glycolic acid is the active ingredient in chemical peels. While it has a host of benefits, they do not come without a cost. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane. It can be used industrially for rust removal and degreasing, but is more commonly used in skin care products as an exfoliator, moisturizer and wrinkle reducer. It is only classified as safe at less than 10%; however, is most effective at concentrations of 10% and higher. Generally only smaller cosmetic companies are willing to take the risk of liability for higher concentrations of glycolic acid in their formulas.
When used in an exfoliating cream, this highly acidic ingredient penetrates damaged skin and burns it off chemically. Other ingredients in the cream carry away residual dead skin flakes. The acid in the cream is neutralized by water when it is rinsed off. Following exfoliation, glycolic acid has the ability to act as a humectant by drawing moisture to the skin. Using products with glycolic acid can cause increased sensitivity to the sun ; thus, a high spf sunscreen is recommended. If that isn’t scary enough, the chemical peel process is just horrendous! After a good scrub of the skin, a highly concentrated alpha hydroxy acid (usually glycolic acid) is applied. Allow me to classify highly concentrated. Recall glycolic acid can be used to remove rust, this at a concentration not to exceed 70%. The concentration of glycolic acid in chemical peels begins at 50%! So what you’re applying to your face just may be strong enough to remove the rust from your car! NOT GOOD.
It is likely that for a few days following a chemical peel treatment, the skin will appear red and irritated, sort of like a burn… I wonder why! The skin on the face is so delicate, I can’t imagine why anyone would want to use such a potent acid on it. I could better relate to the use of a chemical peel on much rougher/tougher skin like that on the feet. While I do not oppose the use of alpha hydroxy acids in skin care treatments, I do think it is important to have some discretion.
by theglamscientist | | allantoin, collagen, elastin, glycolic acid, snail cream, snail trail |
I’m sure we are all familiar with snails and the slimy little trail they leave behind. I once had an intimate relationship with a few snails in middle school. They were unwilling participants in a science project I developed regarding second hand smoke. FYI– I no longer use animal testing. The slime was gross to say the least, but snails were the lesser of evils. I worked with mealworms first–extra gross!– and I can’t even bear the sight of slugs. Much to my surprise, snail trails have a profound application in cosmetics and skin care treatments.
The use of snail extract in beauty treatments was discovered accidentally by snail farmers in Chile. They noticed that cuts healed rather quickly and that all of the workers on the snail farm had unusually soft, supple hands. Typically, hard work with your hands equals hard, calloused hands, but that certainly was not the case. After taking the time to really think about it, it should be no surprise that snail slime has these properties. Critically thinking, snail’s soft bellies travel over some very rough surfaces, yet they keep going and never appear to get injured. Scientists discovered that the snail extract–Helix Aspersa Muller Glycoconjugates– contains collagen, allantoin, glycolic acid, elastin and antibiotics. Allantoin is responsible for skin regeneration. It is the anti-oxidant that allows a snail to repair/rebuild its shell if necessary. Glycolic acid is useful in hydrating and exfoliating the skin as well as assisting natural collagen production. The antibiotics in snail extract are a combination of peptides and Vitamins A, C and EA which work together to fight bacteria.
This is not ‘new’ science. The first snail cream was patented in 1995. It was used to fight wrinkles, acne, and age spots and to treat minor burns, cuts, stretch marks, warts, ingrown hairs, etc. The snails used to make various snail trail cosmetics are raised in a controlled environment to ensure they produce optimal extract. But how is the slime extracted?
One patented method is to agitate the snails in warm water. The water is then filtered to collect only the snail extract. I’ve read of other methods that were much more harsh than this. One involved removing the shell and cutting the fatty parts of the snail. Now is that really necessary? There is also concern about how effective the extract is after being stolen from the snail. Son of the Chilean farmer who originally discovered this miracle slime has developed a process to extract the slime and preserve its qualities. He claims his method does not harm the snails but that is definitely under suspicion since the method is top secret.
While it is a known fact that the snail trail has all these magnificent properties, there is no guarantee that they actually make it into your jar of cream or vial of serum. Additionally, the synthetic ingredients typically found in our beauty products may greatly alter the effectiveness of such a concoction.
