moisturizing | The Glam Scientist

Water: The Ultimate Moisturizer

by theglamscientist | | Cosmetic Ingredients Review, cosmetics, hair conditioning, moisturizer, moisturizing, occlusive agents, skin conditioning, water | 2 comments

A few weeks ago, I saw a tweet that baffled me a bit. Someone (I don’t remember who) was completely annoyed that the top ingredient in some product was water. My first thought was “Whoa, what’s wrong with water?!” More recently, I read about a product line whose claim to fame is “water-free”. From a formulator’s perspective, water can be a nuisance when you are trying to avoid the use of preservatives. That is a big deal in times like these where the natural, eco and organic movement is in full effect. I’m still not clear why consumers would be up in arms about the presence of water in a formula, but I’m here to tell you why you should love it.

Water is THE ultimate moisturizer. Moisture cannot exist if water is not present, so the primary function of water in a moisturizing product is to be the source of moisture. In a perfect world, water would be all we need to maintain well moisturized skin and hair, but that’s just not the way it is. Because water will always evaporate, there needs to be ingredients in a product that act as a barrier to prevent water loss. These barrier (occlusive) ingredients are waxes, vegetable oils and silicone oils. As a bonus, most barrier ingredients come with added benefits like vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, etc.

Another main function of water in a cosmetic formula is to be a solvent. Not only are raw materials concentrated, but they also need a medium to be dispersed. Water dissolves these raw materials and allows them to be used in safe concentrations. [While many raw materials can be used as is, they are equally effective in lesser concentrations.] I fear that some people think water as a top ingredient makes the product “watered down” or ineffective. That couldn’t be further from the truth. Consider the amount of laundry detergent you use in relation to the amount of water the fills the washer. The ratio of detergent to water is clearly 1 to 99 yet, you have full confidence that the minute amount of detergent you used will clean your clothes. The same concept applies to water in cosmetics.

Finally, water plays a major role in the texture of a product. Moisturizers and hair conditioners, for instance, benefit from easier application, spreadability (hmmm is that a word?) etc when water is used effectively. Water as a main ingredient can also be indicative of a lighter formula.

Contrary to popular belief, all skin types and hair types need moisture. So the next time you see water as a top ingredient, be thankful that the formulator thought about your need for moisture. Pay closer attention to the types of oils the product uses to lock that moisture in… dry skin and hair will need heavier oils and oily skin will need much lighter oils.

Are you a consumer that’s not big on water in cosmetics? How do you feel about it now?

Um, What?! Hyaluronic Acid

by theglamscientist | | anti-aging, hyaluronic acid, moisturizing, skin hydration | 0 comments

Hyaluronic acid is a cosmetic ingredient that has long intrigued me. It first caught my interest when I learned it has outstanding moisturizing/hydration properties and is also produced naturally. The human body has a natural supply of hyaluronic acid (as do all mammals). It is part of the connective tissue beneath the top layer of skin along with collagen and elastin.

Hyaluroic acid is such a great hydrant because it has sponge-like qualities which allows it to hold 1000 times its weight in water. The result is well hydrated skin with a more plump, smooth appearance. Overtime, the body’s production of hyaluronic acid begins to decline. The end effect is dull, dry skin that begins to show signs of fine lines and wrinkles. In today’s society, women over thirty are on a quest to look ten years younger. Enter hyaluronic acid in anti-aging serums, cellulite creams, skin and lip plumpers, and even skin injections (similar to BOTOX). It can also be introduced in food or as an oral supplement.

Used topically, hyaluronic acid is said to act as a ‘protective film’ to trap moisture and reduce/prevent evaporation over time. It is not a permanent solution because the molecules are much too large to be absorbed by the skin. In essence, as soon as you bathe, you wash away the desired properties. This is typical of most topical applications which is why you must continue to use a product for ‘lasting’ results.

One of my concerns about this ingredient is how it is obtained. Because hyaluronic acid is only produced by mammals, you could imagine how many vegans and animal rights activists oppose its use. I was not yet able to pinpoint the exact method of extracting hyaluronic acid from animals, nor am I knowledgeable on what animals are typically used. I did however find a study (research) conducted by a team of japanese scientists that were looking for a way to promote hyaluronic acid synthesis. In other words they wanted to try to force the skin to produce more hyaluronic acid to counter the natural affects of aging. They were successful in making a cosmetic with egg white enzyme hydrolysate (from chicken eggs) that was deemed very safe in its use. I look forward to learning about further advancements in this science.

Learn more about the japanese study